Secrets to eating in San Cristobal de las Casas


In Chiapas, we could spend days eating and always discovering something new and fantastic. San Cristóbal de las Casas and its surroundings are no exception, biodiversity plays in its favor so that all sorts of dishes are prepared in the kitchens.

Los Altos Chiapanecos is not only a place to have a good banquet; in this region artisans, potters, distillers, farmers, and ranchers coexist, completing a gastro-cultural landscape that does not lack anything.

To discover its best secrets, our guides are Chefs Marta Zepeda and Kievf Rueda, who run the Tierra y Cielo restaurant in the heart of San Cristóbal.

For breakfast

Egg with chayote root

This vegetable is one of the components of the Chiapas cornfield; in summer they eat their guides and in winter rather the roots that are similar to potatoes are harvested. The flavor is sweet without being too invasive, which makes them perfect to accompany an egg taquito at breakfast, yes, always with beans on the side.

The chayote root is not a common product in the center of the country, rather it is something that is used in Oaxaca and the mountainous area of ​​Chiapas. It is also known as chilchayote and can be used in stews, soups, and stews.

Try it at: El Mesón de la Cofradía
Address: Pantaleón Domínguez # 9, San Cristóbal de las Casas
Facebook: El Mesón de la Cofradía

Egg with chilchayote cubes.

Black chilaquiles

If you like enfrijoladas but evoke the crunchy texture of a tortilla chip, this dish is something that cannot be missed on your visit to San Cristóbal de las Casas.

The black beans are diluted in a very aromatic background with mumu -as it is known there for the leaves- and they are accompanied by jerky, egg, or chicken.

Try it at: El Secreto Restaurant
Address: September 16 # 24 col. Downtown, San Cristóbal de las Casas
Instagram: @ elsecreto.cocina

Black Chilaquiles

Coleto bread

The baking tradition of the High lands of Chiapas came with the conquest when, due to the climate, the peninsular people sowed wheat next to the endemic cornfields. Although to this day that production no longer exists, bread continues to be an emblem of the city.

In donuts, stars, or in small rectangles, the dough – made with flour, sugar, egg, and butter – is cooked in wood ovens very early in the morning so that it is ready at lunchtime.

Try it at any traditional bakery


A wonderful stew whose bottom is prepared with a recado of chile ancho, simojovel, achiote, and oregano to give flavor and depth to the pork entrails.

It comes out of the kitchen steaming, ready to be put between tortillas and served with some black beans and Ocosingo cheese.

Teopisca is a community very close to San Cristóbal where eating is a real treat. The region is surrounded by cornfields, which makes corn a leading role in the kitchen. There are colored tostadas, tamales, and of course, snacks for lunch.

There are several wonders of pinched: first, they are large, approximately ten inches in diameter. Another thing is that they are bathed with a pork seat, which gives them a spectacular flavor. They are finished with fresh cheese and can be very well accompanied by scrambled eggs.

Try them at: Juiquila Restaurant
Address: Carretera San Cristóbal de las Casas – Teopisca Km. 18
Facebook: Juquila Restaurant

Meal time

Chipilín soup

The entire Mexican Republic takes advantage of the Quelites that grow wild in the milpa. Due to the diversity of climates, the species of each region are different and in Los Altos the chipilín stands out.

It is a rounded but long leaf that goes very well in broth. Most people prepare it by thickening it with a little corn, balls, and Ocosingo cheese, but we recommend the simplified version where the background lets you discover the fantastic herbal flavor. The dough balls give the final touch to the chipilín soup.

Try it at Cielo y Tierra
Address: Benito Juárez # 1 Col. Centro, San Cristóbal de las Casas
Instagram: @tierraycielorestaurante

Baked pig “Cochinita”

Pigs are the king of animal protein when it comes to eating in and around San Cristóbal. In Comitán – the land of the legendary Comiteco distillate – the meat is prepared in its juices and for long periods to make it soft and full of flavor.

Try it at: El Rey del Cochito
Address: Calle Sur Pte. 37, Comitán
Facebook: El Rey del Cochito (There are also in Tuxtla and Tapachula)

Mole coleto

To eat in San Cristóbal de las Casas and take its authenticity in a bite, it is best to try the interpretation of regional mole. It is more of sweet flavors because it has fruits such as the Macho banana, so it will be a spectacular companion for turkey, fish, and shellfish.

Each house prepares it differently but this version is drilled by the chef’s grandmother Marta Zepeda.

Try it at Tierra y Cielo
Address: Benito Juárez # 1 col. Downtown, San Cristóbal de las Casas
Instagram: @tierraycielorestaurante

Artisan sausages

It has become clear that pork is one of the most popular ingredients when it comes to eating in San Cristóbal but definitely, nothing like closing the day with a bottle of wine or a pox, a loaf of good bread, and something that crowns it more than worthily.

Imagine that San Cristobal is in the first place in the country making Serrano ham with hairless pork, yes! The same one with which the cochinita pibil is prepared! In addition to that, you will also find fuet, salchichón and the occasional cheese to cook a great snack.

Try them at: H.A.M.
Address: Andador de Guadalupe # 47 Col. Centro, San Cristóbal de las Casas
Instagram: @ h.a.m.charcuteria

Tamales Untados

As chef Marta Zepeda says, every Saturday night, in certain houses in San Cristóbal, a red light is turned on, which means that most of that place is cooking tamales for Sunday lunch.

The tamales are generally seasoned with saffron and our favorite comes with ningüijuti, a stew from the Zoque region made with Chamorro, white chili, tomato, and corn masa.

They do not have any seasoning, rather the name refers to the fact that they are spread on the corn leaf -or totomoxtle- and they are cooked like that. They are also delicious at dinner time, where the café de olla accompanies the twilight and the cold.

If it’s not Sunday, try them at: Tierra y Cielo
Address: Benito Juárez # 1 Col. Centro, San Cristóbal de las Casas
Instagram: @tierraycielorestaurante


San Cristobal Post

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